Fish Stew

In eastern North Carolina, there are two different fish stews - a white and a red. The difference is tomato in some form or fashion. Growing up, I preferred the red. This recipe is a hybrid that originated from Wanda Smith. She made cornbread at Skylight Inn for twelve years before she passed on. She'd make a fish stew about once a month for herself at Skylight and carry it home. One day, I offered to buy the fish if she'd show everyone at the store how to prepare the stew. The recipe below was fine-tuned in my barn by Michael Letchworth, who makes it for random get-togethers.

The stew can be made with different varieties of fish. Rock is a popular fish for stew in our part of North Carolina, but it's got a lot of bones, which I don't like. I said this was a hybrid. Thanks to Letchworth, catfish bellies are my choice, but fillets will also work. I added the eggs. We crack a couple of dozen right into the pot at the end. Wanda wasn’t a fan of the eggs, but she was used to me doing things she didn’t approve of.

This stew feeds a crowd for a bargain. We cook it all the time while out on the road at barbecue festivals when the last thing you want to share with pitmasters is more barbecue. It goes well with some crusty bread for sopping.

Recipe 

Serves 15 to 20

Ingredients: 

1 pound sliced bacon, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 pound fresh sausage links, cut into 1-inch pieces

4 medium red onions, roughly chopped

3/4 cup (one 6-ounce can) tomato paste

5 pounds red potatoes, unpeeled, cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices

4 cloves garlic, chopped

1 gallon chicken stock

2 quarts water

1 teaspoon ground black pepper

3 tablespoons table salt

1/2 teaspoon chili powder

1 tablespoon ketchup, plus more for serving

5 pounds catfish bellies or fillets, cut into 1-inch pieces

18 large eggs

Texas Pete Hot Sauce, for serving


Directions: 

Light a propane burner (outdoors!) and place a pot that holds at least 20 quarts on the burner.

Add the bacon and sausage and fry over medium-high heat. As the fat begins to render, and enough fat has collected at the bottom of the pot, add the onions. Continue to stir until the bacon and sausage are browned and the onions are cooked through, about 15 minutes.

Add the tomato paste and stir until it thoroughly coats the ingredients in the pan. Add the potatoes, garlic, stock, water, pepper, salt, chili powder, and ketchup. Make sure to scrape the bottom of the pan to release any good brown bits that have built up. Bring to a boil and cook until the potatoes are fork tender, 10 to 15 minutes.

Once the potatoes are done, add the fish and do not stir, so the pieces of fish remain intact. Simmer for 5 minutes, until the fish has turned white and flaky.

Crack all the eggs directly into the stew and do not stir. Once the eggs are poached, after about 5 minutes, turn off the heat and serve immediately.

Dip a ladle deep into the stew and pull it straight up out, snagging an egg along the way. If a guest doesn't like eggs, the way they are poached in the liquid makes them easy to avoid. Serve the hot sauce (and some ketchup for those who prefer it sweeter) on the side for folks to add as many dashes as they prefer.

 

Reprinted with permission from Whole Hog BBQ by Sam Jones & Daniel Vaughn, copyright © 2019. Photographs by Denny Culbert. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Penguin Random House, Inc.

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